Where to Stay
Standard Options
Budget
losmen (family guesthouses) blanket Java, Bali, and Lombok. Mid-range boutiques in Bali and Yogyakarta often use traditional compound architecture with garden pools. Luxury peaks in Bali — Ubud and the Bukit Peninsula host some of Asia's finest resorts. Outer islands: quality drops, character rises.
Unique to This Country
Balinese family compound guesthouse (homestay) ★ UniqueTraditional homestays sit within working family compounds — walled gardens of shrines, offering platforms, thatched pavilions. Guests share the rhythms: morning offerings, incense, roosters. Best for cultural immersion over resort polish.
Klotok houseboat, Kalimantan ★ UniqueKlotok houseboats navigate Tanjung Puting's blackwater canals. Sleep on deck, wake to proboscis monkeys on the bank, travel at current pace. The only way into deep orangutan territory — and extraordinary in itself.
Getting Around
Getting There
Soekarno-Hatta (Jakarta) and Ngurah Rai (Bali) connect to Asia, Australia, the Middle East, and Europe. Juanda (Surabaya) and Kualanamu (Medan) handle regional traffic; no international ferry or rail links exist.
Getting Around
- Domestic flights — Essential across this archipelago; Lion Air, Garuda, and Batik Air cover all major islands. Book ahead for peak season.
- Ferries & fast boats — Bali–Lombok and Bali–Gili routes are well-served; PELNI ferries connect outer islands on slower, cheaper schedules.
- Train (Java only) — Java has Southeast Asia's best rail network; the Argo Bromo Anggrek (Jakarta–Surabaya) is fast and comfortable.
- Ojek (motorcycle taxi) — Default last-kilometre transport; Gojek and Grab apps make it cheap and easy in cities and towns.
- Rental motorbike — Best for exploring Bali, Lombok, and Flores; roads vary wildly and south Bali traffic is genuinely chaotic.
Unique & Iconic Transport
PELNI passenger ferry ★ IconicNational shipping line ferries connect outer islands on routes no airline serves. Deck class means sleeping on a mat among traders and families — slow, social, deeply Indonesian. Impractical for tight itineraries; unmissable as an experience.
Cidomo horse cart, Lombok & Gili Islands ★ IconicPrimary transport on the car-free Gili Islands and rural Lombok — negotiate the fare and enjoy being the slowest thing moving.
Transport Tip: Java's trains are excellent and underused — take the overnight sleeper between Yogyakarta and Surabaya rather than flying; you arrive in a new city having saved a night's accommodation.
Sample Itineraries
Short Stay: 10 Days — Highlights & Icons
Days 1–3 – Bali (Ubud)Base in Ubud: rice terraces, Monkey Forest, cooking class. Eat
babi guling (spit-roast suckling pig) at Ibu Oka.
Days 4–5 – Gili IslandsFast boat to Gili Trawangan or Gili Air: snorkel with turtles, grilled fish at sunset, no cars.
Days 6–8 – YogyakartaFly to Yogyakarta. Pre-dawn Borobudur, then Prambanan. Eat
gudeg (jackfruit curry) at a
warung on Jalan Malioboro.
Days 9–10 – Mount BromoDrive east to Bromo; pre-dawn jeep to the viewpoint, rim walk, back to Surabaya to fly out.
Why this order works: Bali eases you in; the Gilis decompress; Yogyakarta is the cultural core; Bromo ends on a volcanic high impossible to follow.
Long Stay: 21 Days — Deep Dive & Off the Beaten Path
Week 1 – JavaThree days in Yogyakarta: temples, batik, Dieng Plateau. East to Bromo, then Ijen for blue sulphur flames at midnight — Indonesia's most surreal sight.
Week 2 – Komodo & FloresFly to Labuan Bajo: two nights for Komodo dragons. Drive east across Flores — Ruteng's spider-web rice fields, Kelimutu's tri-coloured crater lakes. Simple guesthouses; the road is the experience.
Week 3 – Sulawesi or KalimantanFly to Makassar then bus to Tana Toraja: three nights for funerals, cliff graves,
tongkonan houses. Or fly to Pangkalan Bun for a three-night
klotok into orangutan territory.
Going Further: Raja Ampat, West Papua — world's most biodiverse reef system, reached via Sorong. Infrastructure basic, diving transcendent, crowds minimal. Commit a week.
Practical Notes for Travellers
- Respect for religion: Dress modestly outside tourist areas — Indonesia is the world's largest Muslim nation. In Bali, always wear a sarong and sash at temple entrances.
- Bali temple etiquette: Never enter a Bali temple during menstruation (signs posted); don't climb sacred structures; cremations are public — attend quietly.
- Health: Drink only bottled water; dengue present year-round; malaria prophylaxis advised for Papua, Kalimantan, and remote eastern islands (verify).
- Bargaining: Expected at markets and for transport; not in restaurants. Open at roughly half the asking price.
- Volcanoes: Status shifts constantly — check PVMBG alerts before visiting Bromo, Merapi, or Agung (verify alerts).
One Perfect Day — Yogyakarta
- 4:30 AM — Depart for Borobudur; climb the upper terraces in darkness and watch sunrise over the Kedu Plain as jungle mist lifts below.
- 8:00 AM — Breakfast: bubur ayam (chicken rice porridge) at a market stall by the temple.
- 10:00 AM — Prambanan — Hindu temple compound rebuilt from earthquake rubble; still one of Asia's most dramatic temple skylines.
- 1:00 PM — Lunch of gudeg and krecek at a warung on the return road.
- 3:00 PM — Jalan Malioboro: batik workshops, silversmiths, and the vast Beringharjo market.
- 5:30 PM — Kraton (Sultan's Palace): late-afternoon gamelan in the outer pavilion.
- 8:00 PM — Sate klathak (iron-skewer lamb satay) at the warung strip south of the Kraton — and accept that one day is never enough.