That's It ? NO comments at all on the country; Well, here you are !!!

[Larsay]

LUANG PRABANG

In luang Prabang, the MUST SEE are the Imperial Palace and Mount Phou Si. Infinite number of wats. Less visited, but very beautiful : take a boat crossing the Mekong and then turn left on a small road following the river to the temples of Chompet (beautiful panorama) and Long Khoun (superb frescoes, unfortunately in bad shape).

Zillions of hotels, from simple GH to deluxe. In the first category, I recommend the Tephavong, ex Oudomphong 2, with doubles and twins at 10$ and triples at 21$ (ask for the rooms upstairs, which have more light – and its small garden) ; no breakfast except for tea and coffee. Rental of bicycles (9$) and motorbikes (manual 15$, automatic 19$). Numerous other GH and dormitories in the tiny lanes around.

For more money, I recommend the Lao Lu Lodge (Ban Pakham, rue Komsi Phay) ; beautiful small garden with a 150-year old Lao house on stilts ; doubles and twins 30-35$, triples (3 beds) 40$, breakfast included ; The owner, Mr LU, owns also an excellent travel agency, Meuang Lao Tour, which can organize everything including sensational tours of the Northern Mountains. For deluxe, I like the Apsara, very elegant on the bank of the Nam Khan River (80-100$).



Many restaurants on the main street and alongside the Mekong: among the latter, I like the inexpensive Lamache, with river terrace. I have had real treats at the Khaiphen 100 Sisavangvatana St, former Couleur Café (try the chocolate mousse!) ; ATTENTION : they close at 19:00. At the famous Elephant, not cheap, but exceptional (take the menu-dégustation of Lao food, very copious and inexpensive for the quantity) ; at the café Ban Vat Sene (excellent big salads and pizzas). You can eat for peanuts at the night market.

Nightlife stops at 22h30 ; some bars with music and discos on the Nam Khan River.

EXCURSIONS AROUND LP

I did the two main ones in 2 days but it can be done in one. The Khuang Xi Waterfalls, a miracle of Nature (it looks like it was designed for a Disney movie !). Bring your bathing suit.

Stop en route to the amazing Ock Pop Tok (path right just after the Phousy Market). Developed by an Englishwoman and a Lao, Ock Pop Tok ("East meets West") was originally a craft center to promote the traditional dyeing and weaving of silk. They started with 5 employees and now have more than 400 working in the surrounding villages. Dyeing workshop, weaving workshop with 20 permanent employees, dyeing and weaving courses. Shops (one on site and two in Luang Prabang : boutique for textiles with traditional motifs and Heritage Shop for more modern motifs, both facing the Naga Hotel 3, Sakharine Street). Excellent restaurant with a large terrace on the Mekong offering an exceptional view of the river and mountains. Small hotel with 4 very elegant rooms (2 with balcony Mekong view and 2 garden view); low season (April-early September) $ 95 and $ 60, high season $ 115 and $ 75.



Second discovery – a sensational one ! 200 m before the entrance of the Falls Park, the restaurant Carpe Diem. Developed by the French Olivier, the Swiss Alex and his wife Céline, it is an extraordinary place. Nine months of work to build a beautiful set of terraces on multiple levels around a small waterfall (natural pool at the foot). In addition, you enjoy a refined cuisine prepared by a young chef from Nice. Do not miss !!!!

One discovery not far from the falls, on the right at the exit of the village of Ban Muang Khay (or left at the entrance coming from LP), Laos Buffalo Dairy. Created by the Australian Susie and the American Rachel, it is the only dairy of buffalo milk in Laos. They have their own buffaloes and also buy milk from local farmers, which gives them a good extra income. They make wonderful mozzarella, ricotta and feta cheeses, yogurts and delicious ice cream. Visit of the complex, tasting and sale. I enjoyed the mozzarella and the yoghourts.

The Grotto of the 1000 Buddhas in Pak Ou (over de 6000 Buddha statues of all sizes and styles deposited by the Faithful for centuries for New Year) ise in a stunning area at the confluent of the Mekong and the Nam Ou (you can go there from LP by boat).


The Tad Sae Falls (starting August to get enough water). Not as spectacular as Kouang Xi, but it's nice. have a delicious lunch at the first restaurant on the right of the staircase. On the road, spot the large Elephant Village sign. You cannot do more elegant and charming! Small traditional local wooden buildings in a very large tropical garden overlooking the Nam Khan River, sheltering elephants, an elephant museum, two river restaurants and 4 dream rooms with large overwater terrace overlooking the river. It is especially the only camp of elephants on which one sits to grow, no howddha, who end up wounding the animals ; therefore, prefer this center for a ride. Boat for the falls of Tad Sae. Visit 10,000 kips, elephant ride $ 31; rooms 50 $ twins, 60 $ double breakfast included.

 

[Larsay]

Continuation :

XIEN KHOUANG (PHONGSAVAN) AND THE PLAIN OF JARS​

Long road with a lot of turns (10 hours by bus) ; the town is small and without any interest in a large plain. Pieces of bombs, mortar shells, grenades, heavy machine gun shells, etc. decorate everything, a frightening souvenir of all the bombardments (and not only American; the Chinese and North Vietnamese had a lot of fun there also !!!!).

I slept at the Nice Guesthouse, perfect for 15$ (ground floor rooms) and $18 (upper floors). They rent scooters. The town is a gastronomic desert; some OK restaurants on the main avenue where the GH is.

The 3 Jar sites are astonishing. In fact, there are 20 sites but only 3 can be visited (you do not want to go to the others because of unexploded ammunitions). Like Easter Island, it is one of History greatest mysteries: When ? By Whom ? How (there are no quarries around) ? Why ? Experts think that they were temporary burial jars, after which the bodies were incinerated. Site 1 (5 km from Phongsavan) is the largest (250 jars), with an astonishing 6-ton one. Site 2 (30 km – 90 jars), more « intimate » on 2 small Hills. Site 3 (150 jars) is reached after a pleasant 2-km walk and the panorama from the top of the hill is superb.

I did the whole tour in 2 days because I also went to the ancient capital of Muong Khoun, with its beautiful XVIth century stupa and the ruins of an old temple with a big statue of Buddha, but the 3 sites only can easily be visited in one day, solo or in an organized excursion.

THE SOUTH OF LAOS

VIENTIANE, THE BOLAVENS AND THE 4000 ISANDS
Let’s say that I was a bit disappointed apart for the 4000 Islands.​

VIENTIANE

Sympathico, but not more ! There is what locals call « The Center », with 3 large east-west streets, Fa Ngum close to the Mekong, Setthatirat and Samsenthai, and a lot of north-south small streets and lanes, all without any name sign. Nothing outstanding to visit : wat wat wat wat wat ! Easy to see all by bicycle (excellent ones – regular and Mountain – at Lao Bike on Setthathirath just in front of Wat Ong Teu ; several scooter rentals places around).

As for hotels, large choice from 1 to 5 Stars. I found a real pearl, the 2-star Villa Sisavad, 117/12 Ban Sisavad ; a miracle of nice rooms and above all a large swimming pool for 15-20$. 500 m on the left, market with some street restaurants. In the Center, the Mali Namphu, well liked by backpackers because of its large patio, and the small Heuan Lao GH with its herd of cats and dogs of the artist-owner Mr. Somboune, are my favorites. In 3 Stars, definitely MY FAVOURITE, Villa Manoly, with its large garden and pool (the Sala Impeng, with small nice bungalows in a large garden, is nice, but no pool). In 4 Stars, the Ansara and the Green Park, an excellent large resort but away from “The Center”.

Restaurants abound. I had a feast twice at the famous Chokdee, opened by a jovial Belgian ; I recommend the mussels with mustard sauce ; attention : he has a superb collection of Belgian beers, but the prices … 8$ for a small draught. A great find, the Xang Khoo at the corner of Nam Phu Fountain ; superb Lao and French food, fabulous crepes (it was before only a crepe place) and low prices ; a darling ! For lunch, go to the famous French bakery Banneton ; divine cakes, excellent salads ; with one or two glasses of cold white Chardonnay, I have great daily lunches on the terrace.

Vientiane is in a plain, so not much interesting to see around, except for the crazy Wat Xien Khuan (Buddha Park), 24 km south (road to Thadeua) Picture a large piece of land on which a rich Lao, Mr. Luang Pu, who dreamed of merging Buddhism and Hinduism, has erected over 200 statues of reinforced concrete, some of them quite amazing (specially a gigantic lying Buddha). Definitely worth the trip if you have time.

PAKSE AND THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU

PAKSE​

A sleeping town full of backpackers transiting between Laos and Cambodia. Lots of GH, one of the best being Sabaidy 2, Street 20, a large place with everything from dirt cheap dormitories to inviidual rooms with bath ; reservation in advance highly recommended. My favourite is the more expensive Sala Champa, with a large terrace and an excellent restaurant. More money and you have the elegant Résidence Sisouk (the owners are the largest producers of coffee in Laos, an absolute marvel that you can degust at their coffe-pastry shop) ; same rates at the Pakse Hotel, famous for its roof terrace with bar and restaurant.

Lots of restaurants, from the Dao Lin and Sabaidee at the corner of Streets 20 and 13 to the very good small inexpensive Lao Restaurant & Bar on St 20. You can also have great grilled fish in the numerous restaurants alongside the Mekong. I think the best is the one of the Sala Champa.

Pakse is the fiefdom of famous Yves, a Belgian married to a Lao, Noy from Mrs Noy’s Travel ; he is incredible, giving very precise information on the Bolaven and 4000 Islands (and maps !), reserving everything you need – bicycles, scooters, tickets, et.) ; every day at 18h, big conference outside the agency, attended by a small crowd of backpackers, during which Yves explains all the Do and Don’t do.

THE BOLAVEN PLATEAU​

Not my cup of tea ! Rather flat (it’s a plateau !) and mostly boring roads. 2 circuits : the small Pakse-Tad Lo-Thateng-Pakson-Pakse, or the long Pakse-Tad Lo-Sekong, then south to arrive on the boring road Paksong-Pakse.

The first day, I started North, the small Phu Xam Waterfalls are an interesting stop (minority village) ; then a boring road leads to Tad Lo, with a lot of GH ; I selected the blue house on the river jus tat the corner of the bridge, the Sipaseth GH, small cheap bungalows in the garden 4 rooms with balcony upstairs (forget the rooms downstairs, opening on the restaurant( and restaurant river terrace and good food. Stay away from the Saisee GH, formerly good but now a true dump with an appalling welcome. The elegant Tad Lo Lodge and its bungalows are great but expensive ; however, they have built some inexpensive wooden cabins across the falls.

Second day going south and passing in front of a stunning place, the Sinouk Resort ; you are in a Gone with the Wind plantation in the middle of the huge Sinouk Family’s coffee plantation ; immense garden with 3 large houses : one on the river and pond (2 suites, 3 deluxe rooms and a cheaper one (40$), one on the left (4 superior rooms) and one big one on top of a mound with 6 deluxe rooms (60$) + 2 huge suites at 90$. Beautiful restaurant with 3 terraces (garden and pond) ; of course, you could spend the day drinking their coffees, from expresso Chantilly to cappuccino with green tea or wild honey. Pool. One of those dream places !!!

Return to Paksé through horrible Paksong and the beautiful Tad Fane Waterfalls in the middle of the jungle (one-hour trekking to reach the falls and swim) ; facing the falls, nice Tad Fane Resort (small wooden houses and restaurant with terrace over the falls).

I missed the Katamkok Waterfalls, supposed to be the best, but part of the too long for me « Grand Tour ».

CHAMPASAK A ND THE 4000 ISLANDS

CHAMPASSAK​

Even more sleepy than Pakse ! To avoid the ferry, cross ne new Pakse bridge over the Mekong and, around 10 km south, turn left at the sign « Phaphinoy » (itis the name of the 1st village of the commune of Champassak). For ultra-deluxe, when arriving in Phaphinoy, turn left at the sign « River Resort » ; American money splendidly splurged (they even have their own rice field and vegetable gardens) ; of course, rates are au par with the luxury ! Further south on your left, the delightful Anouxa GH : small river bungalows, garden rooms and huge rooms in 2 wooden houses ; good restaurant with large terrace over the Mekong. Farther away, the 3-star expensive Inthira Hotel, without interest because on the road. You also have the Folie Lodge in Don Daeng Island, but, as the name says, it’s crazy : 250$ and over !!!).

Some nice wats and the Wat Phou, the largest archeological site in Laos 10 km south of Champassak in a plain and on the mountain (steep stairs !) ; attention, it can be steaming hot in Summer and it closes at 16h30. Well, that’s no Angkor, but it is worth a detour ; count 2 hours for the full visit ; 50 000 kips (+ 5000 for motorbike parking).

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[Larsay]

CONTINUATION

KHIET NGON​

To continue south, you have to take the ferry in Phaphinoy ; then turn left to arrive on the ultra -boring plain road 13 Pakse-Siphandone (the 4000 Islands), nothing to see except an amazing site, Kiet Ngon : at Km 48, turn left on the dirt road going to Attapeu (big sign « Attapeu 155 km ») and, after 8 km (toll 20 000 kips), turn right ; you enter the beautiful Xe Pian National Park, where wild elephants, leopards and tigers still live. You arrive at the village of Ban Khiet Ngon ; on your left, opposite the « Elephant parking », 2 small houses, each with 2 decent bed rooms for 60 000 kips) ; the beauty of the area is the astonishing Phou Asa, which you can reach by motorbike or a 20 000-kip very pleasant elephant ride ; you arrive on top of a barren mountain with ruins of an ancient stone complex of walls and towers erected to commemorate a victory of the Lao on the Thai invaders in the XIXth century (the locals wrongly tell you that it is 1000-year old).

If you have the money, turn left inside the village to reach the Kingfisher Lodge, the first one in Laos », created by an Italian-Lao couple ; nice stilted wooden houses (750 000 K) and 2 bungalows of 2 rooms with fan only (250 000 K) ; small wooden house with nice restaurant-terrace on the upper floor, over a pond where wild animals come to drink in the evening. Advanced reservation recommended because of groups coming from Pakse.

Guide-books talk about another elephant villag, Ban Papho, that one in the middle of the jungle ; there were elephant rides, but no more ; there is excellent trekking (see in Pakse the agency Green Discovery, specialized in trekkings all over Laos).

THE 4000 ISLANDS​

On Route 13, a new bridge leads to the large and flat Don Khong Islan ; forget it, nothing to see except two wats. Continue Route 13 and turn right to the Mekong village of Nakasang. Take the ferry to Don Det Island ; that one is one of those places for drunkards/drug addicts backpackers, with a long row of cheap guesthouses and seedy bars ; take a tuk tuk to go south and arrive in a little paradise, Don Khone Island (10-125 minute ride); I had planned 2 days, and I stayed 5, forcing myself to return to Pakse.

Lodging is essentially in wooden bungalows over the Mekong, from elegant expensive Sala Done Hotel to the Somphamit, Pan’s, Pakha GH and others. I found my nest away from everything at the small Phonvilay, 4 small wooden house with terrace on the river ; to find it, turn right at the bridge down to the wat and take the small path on your right alongside the wat wall. Lots of restaurants, the best being Fleur du Mékong ; the food is so delicious that I took all my dinners there.

The island has a long history ; before Don Khone, the Mekong is very wide (1 km…and 14 km during the rainy season) and « bumps » into a rocky barrier ; it divides into numerous small torrents down the rocks. To be able to navigate from Saigon to Northern Laos and South China, the French had to build a railway from the southern tip of the island (where they built the “harbor” of Ban Hang Khone) up to the north of Don Det. The railway was abandoned after the construction of Route 13, and is now a trail ; both in the main village and in the harbour is exhibited an old locomotive, with very interesting photos and explanations in English.

The Somphamit Rapids (Li Phi)

The locals call them Li Phi, which means “The Evil Spirits Well” (Lao people still strongly believe in the phi, the geniuses), because they think that those rapids imprison the spirits, so no local would swim there, even nowadays. The rapids are quite spectacular. Entrance fee 35 000 K, small beach and restaurant.

The Khon Pa Sai Rapids

Very different and as spectacular ! Go to the northern tip of the island (village of Ban Khon Nua) and follow the trail until a sign « Khon Pa Sai Waterfalls » ; turn left and you arrive at a dead end with a very good restaurant (I went there for lunch every day) ; you walk through the bridge and arrive at the river. In its middle, you will see huge bamboo traps over 10-m long ; when the water level is at its peak, the locals manage to catch over 500 kg a day in each trap.

Ban Hang Khone

It is the « French Harbour » at the southern tip of the island. There, the Mekong is several km wide, a true sea ; it is in those waters that can be seen Irrawadi dolphins in the morning or late afternoon (boat excursions are available). To go there, take the trail which was the former railway. Huge concrete terrace with a splendid panorama of the river. One km before, a right trail leads to a beautiful beach with restaurants.

Back on Route 13 (or by boat from Don Khone), you can also see the Pha Peng Rapids, the tallest one in Asia (15 m).